RoraStar96
July 11th, 2004, 02:45 PM
I posted this on the ACNA boards but figured it could be helpful here, feel free to add any infomation I may have missed or share your ideas!
Yesterday I laboured through a complete rear brake change. I installed Rototech cross drilled and slotted rotors with Wagner ThermoQuiet ceramic pads. I now have a complete Rototech/Wagner braking system at all 4 corners....now to work on heat venting
We jacked up the car and used 2 3 ton axle stands and rested the vehicle on its 2 jack points right in front of the rear tires. We used the frame rail (strongest part of the car) to initially jack the car up. Once the car was resting on jack stands, we removed both the left and right rear tires. There are 2 bolts behind the rotor that holds the rotor/caliper assembly together. It was quite difficult to remove those bolts. Use an 18mm head with a standard racthet and you'll be fine. We loosened the caliper and the old pad fell out. It was still in pretty good shape but I wanted to upgrade the system,
Anyhow. We removed the caliper from the rotor without much hassle. The rotor itself slid off without much difficulty either. Once the new rotor was installed, we cleaned it off with brake cleaner. We mounted the ceramic pads onto the caliper and attempted to return the caliper back in place...wouldnt budge. Apparently the caliper piston has to be reset with a special tool called a Piston Caliper Tool. its a cube shaped object that mounts to the end of the ratchet. You locate the pattern that suits the piston and CAREFULLY and SLOWLY turn the piston back into its recessed position.
As you pads wear, the piston moves out to ensure tight spacing against the rotor, as well as creating the compression needed to slow the car down. Once that was reset we slid the caliper back down, bolted it up and torqued everything back into place. We mounted the tire, torqued it to 100ft/lbs.
Once that was done, we pressurized the system with the master cylinder cap off then I put the master cylinder cap back on and completed the re-pressurization.
Caution: Do NOT use a C-clamp to reset the rear caliper piston....it only works on the front. That cube tool is required in order to reset the piston!
Tools required.
2 jack stands
Tire Iron/Air tools (to remove lugs)
Ratchet set complete with 13mm, 15mm and 18mm heads
Pry bar
Flathead screwdriver
Brake cleaner fluid
Caliper piston tool (cost me $17 CDN)
Torque wrench
And that was it!
Yesterday I laboured through a complete rear brake change. I installed Rototech cross drilled and slotted rotors with Wagner ThermoQuiet ceramic pads. I now have a complete Rototech/Wagner braking system at all 4 corners....now to work on heat venting
We jacked up the car and used 2 3 ton axle stands and rested the vehicle on its 2 jack points right in front of the rear tires. We used the frame rail (strongest part of the car) to initially jack the car up. Once the car was resting on jack stands, we removed both the left and right rear tires. There are 2 bolts behind the rotor that holds the rotor/caliper assembly together. It was quite difficult to remove those bolts. Use an 18mm head with a standard racthet and you'll be fine. We loosened the caliper and the old pad fell out. It was still in pretty good shape but I wanted to upgrade the system,
Anyhow. We removed the caliper from the rotor without much hassle. The rotor itself slid off without much difficulty either. Once the new rotor was installed, we cleaned it off with brake cleaner. We mounted the ceramic pads onto the caliper and attempted to return the caliper back in place...wouldnt budge. Apparently the caliper piston has to be reset with a special tool called a Piston Caliper Tool. its a cube shaped object that mounts to the end of the ratchet. You locate the pattern that suits the piston and CAREFULLY and SLOWLY turn the piston back into its recessed position.
As you pads wear, the piston moves out to ensure tight spacing against the rotor, as well as creating the compression needed to slow the car down. Once that was reset we slid the caliper back down, bolted it up and torqued everything back into place. We mounted the tire, torqued it to 100ft/lbs.
Once that was done, we pressurized the system with the master cylinder cap off then I put the master cylinder cap back on and completed the re-pressurization.
Caution: Do NOT use a C-clamp to reset the rear caliper piston....it only works on the front. That cube tool is required in order to reset the piston!
Tools required.
2 jack stands
Tire Iron/Air tools (to remove lugs)
Ratchet set complete with 13mm, 15mm and 18mm heads
Pry bar
Flathead screwdriver
Brake cleaner fluid
Caliper piston tool (cost me $17 CDN)
Torque wrench
And that was it!