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Blinkers don't work consistantly in 2000 Intrigue |
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May 18, 2013 - 9:38 PM - by nickbuol
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I've been working the last week and a half on getting a newly purchase car fixed up for my daughter. Everything went back together today.
However, the blinkers don't work consistently. I mean they don't work more than they work. The turn "headlight" (white light that shines which ever direction the blinkers are supposed to blink) comes on, but the flashers don't do anything. No "clicking" sound or anything. Hazards work though.
I couldn't find out a rhyme or reason to what made them work when they did.
Two weeks ago during the test drive, the blinkers worked...
Any ideas?
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4 Replies | 49 Views
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2000 alero no start |
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May 18, 2013 - 4:52 PM - by wags70ss
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I have a 2000 alero with 170,000 miles on it. It has the 3400 engine.
When I turn the key to start it, nothing happens. By that I mean no starter engagement no nothing. I thought the starter was bad so I put a new one on & that didnt help. I had a friend turn the key while I held a test light on the solenoid engagement wire & it is not getting power when the key is turned to the start position. The battery is new.
When I turn the key on, all the lights on the dash light up, & after a few seconds they all go out as they should. This includes the security light.
I have checked all the fuzes, they are good, connections at the starter & battery are good. Tried the 10 minute relearn proceedure - no luck.
It seems like whatever powers up the solenoid wire is not energizing it for some reason. I can turn the key to the run position & jump the starter terminals & it will start, just not with the key.
By the way, I have 35 years expirence as a mechanic so I know what to look for in the typical situation. There is no starter relay on this car so its not that.
Anyone got any ideas as to the cause? Thanks!
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2 Replies | 36 Views
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1980 Cutlass engine swap |
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May 18, 2013 - 2:45 PM - by BlackWatch
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Hi all, first post. I have been trying to find a good 80 Cutlass in the past few years. I found a 1 owner with a little over 100,000 miles but it has the dreaded 260 motor with the 200 tranny. However, I have also found a 77 Cutlass with a 350/350 tranny that I am considering as a donor car.
I believe this will drop in with no issues. Does anyone know the difference in horsepower between the late 60's 350, early 70's 350s and the 73-77 350s? Just wondering if this would be a good donor car for engine, transmission, rear end etc? Will I need to redo the front suspension?
Any help and or suggestions welcome. Thanks
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0 Replies | 37 Views
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GM P1136 P1137 P1138 Codes after timing chain tensioner replacement. (Quad 4) 2.4L |
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May 17, 2013 - 7:46 PM - by ThePabst
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Reset with code reader or Battery disconnect, you should be good to go. This code is normal (Once) after any timing component, power steering pump or water pump replacement on this motor.
Cause: The computer re-maps fuel trim as the old component slowely fails. The new install suddenly restores cam timing to the proper profile(s) thus causing error.
The PCM may also call this code after a suddend stall on 5 speed trans.
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0 Replies | 49 Views
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Stinking Water Via Cabin Filter Has Me Stumped |
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May 17, 2013 - 12:47 AM - by nickbuol
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I was drawing out one of my other posts, and thought that I would put a specific question here in its own thread.
EDIT: The title should be "Annoying Water Via Cabin Filter Has Me Stumped". There is no stink or odor involved... Anyway...
So, I've been fighting trying to solve the water on the floor problem with the 2000 Intrigue that we bought my daughter (her money, my time to fix everything).
Anyway, the seats and carpet were all removed to make it easier to track down where the water was coming in and sure enough it is via the cabin air filter.
So, here is what I've done.
I have cleaned and secured the weatherstripping (it actually wasn't really loose, but now it should stay completely in place). I fixed the foam seal around the inside of the hole for the filter (see picture below: Yellow is where the foam should be, and red is where it was at. I couldn't get it back in place using 3M automotive tape, so I used some silicone to hold it in place. I have since sealed it in place completely with silicone because I have been baffled. I replaced the fasteners with new ones that weren't damaged, and really can't think of much else. Water is still coming in. Not as fast as in the past, but still there using the garden hose test.
So what I noticed tonight was that the cowl on that side is slightly warped up on both sides of the threaded "button" fastener that uses a phillips style screwdriver to loosen and tighten:
These areas obviously are allowing water under the cowl instead of forcing it over the top and then down the drain holes. Oh, I also fixed the deformed "shield" or whatever that hangs down around half of the drain hole area to deflect water straight into the drain itself (which isn't clogged)...
Anyway,... [Read More]
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3 Replies | 105 Views
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200k!
(  1 2 3)
December 6th, 2012 09:23 PM
19 Hours Ago 07:05 PM
22 Replies, 1,019 Views
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